A lot has happened in the week I was gone! My marriage turned 2, I got a year older, summer turned to fall, and about 200 of our tomatoes ripened. Also, I think I finally unwound and relaxed to a level not achieved in years! Dave and I spent our anniversary and my birthday, plus a few days before and after, on a nearly deserted beach in Tulum, Mexico. This was my first trip south of the border, and I was totally enchanted by this little village and the people we met there. We stayed at a place called Posada Lamar, in a sweet cabana on the beach. The hotel is very eco-friendly, using mainly solar energy, limited electricity and very environmentally responsible practices. There were 8 cabanas built by the owner, each pretty rustic but gorgeously designed, and each unique in its details. Ours was absolutely beautiful, and I won’t forget the feeling of falling asleep to the crashing surf and ocean breezes.
Our first day there, we were looking for a good place to find a late lunch, and stumbled into El Tabano cafe, which quickly became one of our favorite restaurants of all time. The owners, Paf and Laura, welcomed us in and helped us with the menu, which turned out to be an incredible selection of inventive and delicious Mayan food with-a-twist. Over the week we were in Tulum we ate there several times, and tried the cold tomato and papaya soup, poblano peppers stuffed with nuts, grains and fruits, the best fish tacos I’ve ever had, Mayan meatballs, drunken grouper and tortilla lasagna. Oh, not to mention a towering appetizer created from layers of sliced pears, brie cheese, local honey and walnuts.
It was the low season in Mexico, due to the less predicable weather, but the shortage of U.S. travellers and fear of swine flu left Tulum even more deserted than usual this time of year. This was nice for us – we got the beach pretty much to ourselves – but I’m worried for some of the businesses there, which seemed to be suffering. On the flip side, we heard that the jungle just inland from the beach has been purchased by one of the huge resort chains, so the whole face of the area may change very soon. If you are looking for an incredible and pretty reasonable getaway, this is the place, but go soon!